Let’s Talk Skincare with Charlene
A Conversation on Skincare, Wellness, and Inclusivity
Are we still talking about PCOS and wellness? Yes we are! Considering the skin is the largest organ in the body, what is wellness without a conversation about skin?
I started following Charlene a couple years back. I think one of my friends reposted one of her skincare videos, and I was instantly hooked! I loved the clean lines and simple elegance of her aesthetic. But more than anything, I was pulled in by the fact that she was a black woman reviewing products and letting her skin do the talking. You see, growing up, we would see ads on TV and in magazines and assume that everything the copy said applied to us. We would spend money on skincare products, only to use them and find out the hard way that we weren’t the target audience. This was for the typical teenage girl or young adult.
Now, add in the complexity of having not just adolescent skin issues but deeper hormonal issues that often manifested in skin problems. Hard to diagnose, hitting your confidence and then even when you felt you had the means or the desire to help change things; buying a product that was designed for a different demographic. So yeah, Charlene got me hooked!
I also am not typically into celebrity endorsements (though some are genuine) because they typically have multiple other factors separate from the product that influence the seemingly perfect outcomes of these products. So a classy girl-next-door, who had the same skin tone as me, and worked with products that showed results in her everyday?
Put me in, Coach!
Following Charlene was the first step. As I started to learn about skincare and maintaining this important barrier through various phases of my life, I would typically stress test trending topics - skin care products, habits and recommendations, against what people like Charlene were doing. I remember when sun protection for black women was a big topic, and feeling like ‘duh! Who didn’t know that?’ That was the influence of people like her.
As we wrapped up Black History Month and delve deeper into 2024, increasing our focus on overall wellbeing, I thought I should give Charlene pride of place here in this community, and let you all get to know her. Like me, she is in the tech industry and rocks a 9-5 job, while influencing on the side with her own passions. I have tried to ask the questions I think you might want answers to. And particularly for my younger readers, most of whom have reached out to me after being diagnosed with PCOS and worried about what this would mean for their overall health but specifically skin and hair issues.
So as usual, get a drink or a snack, find a comfy spot and let’s dig into this insightful conversation!
Tell us a bit about you
My name is Charlene and I live in London. I'm a software engineer by day but I also love all things beauty with a keen interest in skincare. I love to review different products, figuring out what the best products on the market are and how they can be incorporated in a skincare routine. Reviewing skincare products isn't just a hobby; it's a passion that lets me explore the endless sea of beauty innovations, always on the lookout for that next game-changer.
I’d love to hear how you got into skincare
My skincare journey really started in my teens. I suffered from acne which led to persistent hyperpigmentation. I was completely lost about what I should do or how I should care for my skin. I became really interested in researching different skincare products and ingredients to try and figure out the best ways I could address the skin issues I was dealing with.
That’s amazing! As a teen, I was a late bloomer so when my acne started, lots of my friends had moved past that stage, but somehow didn’t have any recommendations for me. I basically plowed through it in a pseudo-grumpy state until I knew better. I’m glad you did the research so now a lot of our younger readers can learn from you. Speaking of research, what have you found the most interesting in the beauty and skincare space so far?
The evolution of consumer awareness has been fascinating to witness. We're in an era where information is at our fingertips, empowering us to make informed decisions about what we put on our skin. However, this wealth of information can sometimes leave us overwhelmed and in a state of analysis paralysis. My strategy to navigate this overload is to engage in thorough research, taking a step back to assess what truly works for my skin, ensuring I don't get swayed by every passing trend.
And I can attest to that! Your content is so easy to digest and cuts through a lot of the noise we see in the industry and especially in social media today. As a black woman, I really love the industry representation today, not just with models and visuals, but the range of shades in products available for all skin hues and textures. How have you found the experience navigating the industry as a woman of color - and specifically a black woman?
I love that there are so many more options for black women (especially dark skinned black women) in the makeup space than even 10 or 15 years ago. Brands headed by black women (Pat McGrath, Fenty, Ami Cole, Danessa Myricks among others) have definitely been spearheading this change which has led to mainstream brands also catering for a wider range of skin tones. I think this is a step in the right direction; It allows black women to be more expressive and experimental with beauty which, for me, is a key component of inclusivity.
As you know, I have PCOS, and most hormonal issues women face typically have side effects that present themselves on our skin - acne, hyperpigmentation, hirsutism and the skin issues that come with excess treatment to remove facial hair… I could go on. Personally, I mostly have to deal with hormonal acne - literally one big zit on my cheek or forehead every few days before my period. Hahaha. But one thing I have found is that a lot of women with these hormonal issues complain that regular skin care routines don’t quite address their issues. Do you have any experience or advice in this area that can help?
I believe that navigating hormonal fluctuations and their impact on the skin requires a holistic approach. My philosophy centers around tuning into the body's signals and adjusting care routines to align with the various phases of my menstrual cycle. For example, I have noticed that my skin feels more sensitive and dry during my luteal phase so I make sure that my routines during that time focus more on hydration.
So while I don't have PCOS, I've learned to adapt my skincare to be more nurturing during sensitive phases. This principle of adaptability, I believe, can offer immense benefits to those dealing with hormonal skin challenges.
I love that! I’ve recently written about adjusting our routines alongside our menstrual cycle from the perspective of exercise. So this is really meaningful for me. Definitely worth its own topic, to be honest! So across your body’s cycle, skincare brands, where you may be located at any time and what season it might be, what is non-negotiable for you when it comes to skin care routines and products?
As someone who reviews many skincare products, I really value transparency. In an era where skincare brands are in abundance, honesty about ingredients and the efficacy of products is non-negotiable. Misleading claims do a disservice to the consumer and the industry at large, and I advocate for integrity above all else.
It’s so important to do those checks as consumers. A lot of brands these days are claiming to be clean but a peek at the ingredients will have us questioning their transparency a bit more, especially for people who use these products on a daily basis. What would you recommend as good practice for someone who has to wear makeup quite often (for work etc.) to protect and maintain their skin barrier?
The debate about makeup leading to breakouts is a myth that needs debunking. The key to wearing makeup without compromising your skin's health lies in diligent removal and cleanliness. Ensuring that your skin is thoroughly cleansed to prevent clogged pores, along with regular cleaning of makeup brushes, can make a world of difference. It's not about avoiding makeup; it's about embracing it responsibly.
What are your thoughts/advice on sun protection, especially for black women?
It's incredibly important. Sun protection is crucial, regardless of skin tone. The misconception that darker skin doesn't require sunscreen is a narrative I'm determined to change. UV rays do not discriminate, and the absence of proper sun protection can exacerbate issues like hyperpigmentation. It's essential to incorporate sunscreen into your daily routine to safeguard your skin's health and prevent long-term damage.
What skincare products can you not live without?
Having a portable sun protection option, like a sun stick or spray, is a game-changer for on-the-go reapplication.
What’s your typical skincare and makeup routine?
In the morning, I like to use a hydrating cleanser, followed by a hydrating serum, then a moisturizer, and finish off with sunscreen. In the evening, I'll skip the sunscreen but add a fading serum and a richer moisturizer.
Makeup-wise, I keep it simple: a dewy base for that natural glow, a touch of blush for a pop of color, mascara to open up the eyes, and a swipe of lip oil for a glossy finish. It’s my go-to look that feels effortlessly chic.
Oh and it shows! Your face, both made up and bare, always looks so dewy and clean! I guess we now know how to replicate that! :) For someone who is thinking about starting the journey of taking care of their skin, what would you recommend as a first approach?
Embarking on a skincare journey can feel overwhelming, but I stand by simplicity and consistency being key. Start with the basics: a gentle cleanser, a nourishing moisturizer, and sunscreen with at least SPF 30 for the daytime. These three steps form the foundation of effective skincare. Once you have products sorted, you'll need to give your skin time to adapt and show results. After that, you can begin to explore products that target specific concerns, always listening to your skin's response and adjusting accordingly.
Are there any skincare myths you’d like to dispel? Something annoying that’s a fad or that people have somehow accepted but is not quite recommended?
One myth I encounter time and again is the belief that people with darker skin tones don't need sunscreen and this couldn't be further from the truth! While melanin does provide a degree of protection, it’s not a shield against all the harmful effects of UV exposure. Skipping sunscreen can lead to premature aging, not to mention the risk of exacerbating hyperpigmentation. It’s crucial for everyone, regardless of skin color, to incorporate sun protection into their daily routine.
How can people reach you?
You can find me on either Instagram or TikTok under the username @msceebee